Our unfair "Anton Ego" gathering a few days ago with several friends, were discussing a controversial article that we read this summer a monthly magazine of politics and society Murcia. The article in question was a serious food critic recently opened a restaurant in La Manga del Mar Menor where literally our " Anton Ego " Murcia wrote the following:
"You go and sit. Sumillier appears and ask a wine chilly. The gentleman corseted bow since you used a watery wine Oregon ( made in U.S. ) singing in an endless litany of the virtues. Without a word, no letter and no deployment pricing starts tasting menu by the grace of the house.
to start: Ham with the stamp of "Hu" or answers that Huelva Hungary but , followed by something similar to danone two tiny slices of octopus, and right next a bit (it looked chewed by the teeth of the grandmother) of smoked salmon dotted with caviar on earth.
The second, Carpaccio reindeer plan " Ostilio " transparent. Yes, you read that right, reindeer, deer that they moved to Santa Claus in Easter, but neither were in Lapland and it was to celebrate Christmas. Era La Manga and with two seas.
The Third Foi not know what he caught on a tooth (as the phalanx of the index finger) masked with brown sugar, of course with a pellet jam.
And to top: Cod frozen (as explained in NASA scientists plan) that I had not eaten or a patient in articulo mortis by starvation. Just off the table, and for extra privacy, a waitress hits the dust shaker chairs.
Invoice: 303 euros.
The place is destined to " chic" but for scrofula black curtain that separates the dining room of the bar and through the open doors of the toilets that give off poisonous exhalations of urine with freshener of bur.
What you cuddle a frozen cod weirs along the Mar Menor is a cardinal sin, especially when they do not provide a menu of dishes and their prices and ignores home serving what they please . Unfortunate for the three hundred out of the wing and fasting, yes, the place, again, thanks to the perfect landscape.
Lamentable y para no volver.”
Esta crítica gastronómica, publicada sin firmar, incluso teniendo en el fondo razón, que no lo voy a discutir, me parece innecesaria en sus formas. Todos somos exigentes hoy en día en un restaurante, valoramos mucho la relación calidad/precio tanto del servicio como la del menú, pero hay otras formas para expresar nuestro desacuerdo. Escribir unas cuantas letras intentando tirar por tierra el trabajo, ilusión y esfuerzo de muchas personas, no lo considero adecuado. Un crítico debería de tener en cuenta que con sus palabras is influencing the behavior of his readers, and even criticism should not be free of sincerity, it would be desirable to express their displeasure in other words.
In my opinion I agree with the saying that critics should not try to change the world or make something work, just say it does not work, but the way it should express be taken into account.
A food critic ought to be constructive , valued by chefs and owners of restaurants for improvement. But the most important criticism is that of the guests, customers flock to the restaurant daily, and not the critical matter how prepared you are.
particularly as a food critic I always stay with the authentic Anton Ego the restaurant Gusteau 's at the end of the beloved movie Ratatouille .
In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. Risk a little because we have a position that is above that present their work and assume our discretion. We bask in the negative reviews that are fun to write and read. But the bitter fact that we must face the critics, is that the moment of truth, any product has Mostly mediocre more sense that the criticism in that trash can. But there are times that a critic truly risks, pro- discovery and defense of something new. The world is hostile to new talent and new creations, new needs friends. Last night I experienced a new experience, an extraordinary meal from someone above singularly unexpected. Stating that food as the chef have questioned my preconceived ideas about good food would stay very short. I have been shaken to the core. In the past, never hid my disdain on the theme of Chef Gusteau : Anyone can cook. But I realize I had not really understood what he meant by it. Not that anyone can be an artist but great artists can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins of genius now cooking at Gusteau and in view of a server is nothing less than the best French chef. I will soon come Gusteau hungry for more creations. "- Anton Ego .
